Stain removal
Step-by-step removal for the stains people fight most — matched to the stain’s chemistry, and to your garment’s care label.
Five rules for every stain
- Act fast. Fresh stains lift far more easily than ones that have set.
- Blot, don't rub — rubbing drives the stain deeper and frays the fibers. Work from the back of the fabric to push it out the way it came in.
- Check the care label first. Never exceed the garment's maximum temperature; if it says wash cold or dry-clean only, follow it.
- Test any treatment (oxygen bleach, hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, vinegar) on a hidden seam first — some can strip color.
- Never tumble-dry until the stain is completely gone. Dryer heat sets most stains permanently — air-dry and check, then re-treat if needed.
- Grease & cooking oil moderateOil needs a degreaser, not just detergent. Dish soap is the household hero.
- Red wine toughA pigment-and-tannin stain that sets fast. Speed and cool water matter most.
- Blood moderateA protein stain: the #1 rule is cold water, never hot.
- Tomato & pasta sauce moderateA combo stain — oily and deeply pigmented — so treat both parts.
- Coffee & tea easyA tannin stain that rinses out easily when fresh (add enzymes if it had milk).
- Sweat & deodorant (yellow armpit) moderateYellowing is sweat proteins reacting with deodorant aluminum — and chlorine bleach makes it WORSE.
- Ballpoint ink toughLift ink with alcohol, transferring it onto a towel underneath — don't spread it.
- Grass toughGrass is a stubborn plant-dye + protein mix — enzymes do the heavy lifting.
- Chocolate moderateChocolate is oil plus pigment — scrape, rinse cool, then treat both.
- Lipstick & makeup moderateMost makeup is oil-based — cut it with a degreaser or solvent, and don't rub.
Guidance follows American Cleaning Institute — cleaning tips . Always defer to your garment’s own care label.